Brake Light Controller

An easy way to add more realism to your scaler.  This is a really simple to install device that lets you have working brake lights and more if you choose the upgrades.

** Please note that it is meant to work with the "instant-reverse" type of ESCs, not the "double-pump reverse" ESCs. **

To put it in your rig, just unplug your ESC and plug this into the receiver and the ESC into it. Connect your brake lights and you are done.

For just a little more money, you can order a pair of Red 5mm LEDs that you can plug into it.

There are some options to decide on before you purchase.
- If all you want is a controller for your brake lights, choose "Just the Brakes".

Note that the following versions of the brake light controller include a feature that keeps the brake lights dimly lit when the brakes are not operating.  This is to give the appearance of tail lights. 

- If you decide that you also want reverse lights, choose the "Brake and Fwd and Rev and Headlight"
- Need a third (center) brake light?  This output turns on a brake light as normal, but when it is not lit, it does not glow dimly like the other brake light output.  Choose "Brake and Third Brake Light and Fwd and Rev and Headlight"

A note about the Fwd output.  This output can be used to activate a set of lights that turn on when you are going in the forward direction.  Perhaps a set of roof lights or other driving lights, or this output can be left unused.  The deep dark secret as to why it even exists is because not all electronic speed controls agree on which direction is forward.  If you get your reverse lights plugged in and find that they are turning on when you are going forward, plug them into the forward output and then they will come on when you go reverse!

Some nitty gritty about how it works:
This circuit consists of a micro controller that monitors the servo signal that goes to the ESC. That's why it plugs into the receiver and the ESC plugs into it. The servo signal passes unaltered to the ESC. 
When you first power up your rig, the code in the microcontroller reads the servo signal and assumes that it is seeing it in the neutral position - that means that your finger isn't on the trigger. This is how it self calibrates itself to your vehicle's transmitter and ESC.
When your finger is off the trigger, it assumes that you aren't applying throttle to go forward or reverse and therefore sends power to the output pins so it will light up the LEDs that you have plugged into it. Move the trigger a little forward or reverse and it turns off the output and the brake lights go dark.
The LEDs that are connected will need to have series current limiting resistors. The voltage that is being delivered is the same voltage that your receiver is getting.
The typical value for the resistor for each LED is 150 to 270 ohms. LEDs are generally installed with resistors calculated to keep the current draw in the neighborhood of 20mA of current. 
The brake light controller is capable of providing about 350mA so there is lots of capacity if you really want to run a lot of light.